Parts of Lisbon were crowded; three large cruise ships were in port, spewing tour groups into the streets. Businesses in the Baixa (downtown) have changed from local retailers to kitschy souvenir shops. Nevertheless, we were mostly able to escape the hubbub by walking around in the Saldanha neighborhood near our hotel, where many residents of Lisbon live and work. A maternity hospital was across the street from our hotel, Turim Saldanha. We also found some quiet streets and a lunch spot in the Alfama. Near Saldanha is the fabulous Gulbenkian Museum, with the unmatched collection of its founder, Calouste Gulbenkian. We also found respite in the Botanical Garden, with its subtropical species forming an oasis in the center of the city. One morning we went to Belém, and another day we went to Sintra. After eating Portuguese food for many days, we took advantage of Lisbon’s greater diversity and enjoyed an Italian dinner at Il Giardinetto, near our hotel. We very much enjoyed an evening with local cuisine at the home of Portuguese friends, too!

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