We drove to Tryavna, a center of craftspeople. While the old little village was interesting, the crafts were not particularly impressive. Next, Etar, an ethnographic museum complex of buildings moved from around the countryside, was less interesting, as it was just that: a made-up compilation of buildings. Tryavna is the real thing; Etar is completely for tourists. The day was overcast; rain was intermittent, and the water flowing down from the mountains made the waterwheels turn for the mills.  We drove through the mountains to the plain at the foot of the Balkan mountain range, through the Rose Valley (roses were past prime), to the town of Kazanlak, with a Thracian tomb from the 4th century BCE (as well as a duplicate model for easier and less expensive viewing and photographing), as well as a small museum at the Rose Institute dedicated to explaining rose oil production and displaying photos of the Rose Queens from the annual Rose Festivals.