For three nights we stayed at the lovely Berlingeri Agriturismo, set in relatively flat farmland with vineyards, olive groves, orange trees, and sheep. Nearby Mazara is a fishing town with a long history of immigrants, now many north African and Arab. Mayor Nicolò Cristaldi is also a ceramicist and has donated many of his own works to the town, as well as inspiring other to also do so. We ate lunch at Eyem Zemen, having a traditional Tunisian meal in the Kasbah. For dinner, we helped prepare a Sicilian meal (pizza, pasta, sauce, eggplant parmesan, rich cream and fruit dessert) at Osteria Scopari’s Chef Paolo Austero’s direction. Dan was the chief pasta maker.

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