On the way to Erice, we stopped to overlook Castellammare, where the castle protected the land from sea invaders. We went on to Erice, a Carthaginian town, where rain and hail presented a challenge on the cobbles and limited our views from the hilltop across the plains. The medieval part of Erice is only about 50% inhabited, a “ghost” town (borge); the inhabitants moved to the seaside below. Lunch was at Agriturismo Tenute Pispsa Segesta, a beautiful place with acres of vineyards and olive trees, plus a stunning view of the Greek Temple of Segesta, never finished so it’s unclear to whom the temple would have been dedicated.

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