Clarksdale, county seat of Coahoma County, has music festivals and small clubs, but otherwise looks depressed. Bluesberry Cafe opened in a storefront about 12 years ago, and we enjoyed a concert by Watermelon Slim (Bill Homans) and his small ensemble. We stayed at the Shack Up Inn, located on the former Hopson Plantation. This was a unique experience! We stayed in one of the sharecropper shacks that the owners had had moved to the site to use as motel rooms. The Shack Up Inn was voted magazine Southern Living’s readers’ 5th favorite inn in 2017, completely different from the posh places in the other top 10.

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