We reached the Snæfellsnes Peninsula after a long drive past volcanoes outside Reykjavik and through a very long tunnel. We took a 2 1/2-hour walk/hike from a hostel (with rental horses, though we didn’t ride) to the rim of a crater of the extinct Eldborg volcano, passing wild blueberries and other bushes growing out of the soil from lava and ash. There were few other hikers, a welcome change from the numbers at the Golden Circle attractions. We stopped at two small seaside villages, Arnastapi and Hellnar; walked on golden sand and lava fields; saw sea stacks, gulls, and cormorants; and enjoyed the view of the Snæfellsjökull Glacier from the edge of a water-filled Bárðarlaug Caldera. We spent the night in the only place around, the family-run and friendly Hotel Rjúkandi in Borgarnes.