The winding, narrow roads to Grazalema were a challenge, but finding the hotel (Casa de las Piedras) was easy, given that the village has but three narrow parallel streets. This is a beautiful, prosperous-looking village. Our first hike to Puerto del Boyar was not as long as we’d hoped, as clouds shrouded the mountains and rain began. The next day was spectacular, with an invigorating walk to near Simancón Mountain, where we saw ibexes on the ridge and griffon vultures circling just above us.