Before reaching Córdoba, we stopped at the Medinat al-Zahra, an archaeological site of a 10th century city and Alcázar, the capital of Al-Andalus. Driving then to Córdoba, Dan had an adventure after dropping us and our baggage at the hotel (Casa de los Azulejos), as he negotiated narrow, one-way, and pedestrian streets to finally (about an hour later!) return to the hotel garage. We then set out to explore the city, even eating a lunch of tapas in the very pedestrian plaza where Dan had driven. Córdoba’s highlight is its Mezquita (mosque), constructed from the 8th through 10th centuries. The enormity of the space, with more than 800 arches still remaining, gives a sense of peace from the outside world. Converted to a Christian church in the 13th century, a cathedral nave was constructed within the space in the 16th century, after which, Charles V regretted its construction.

We also visited the Juderia, including a 14th century somewhat restored synagogue and a museum of Sephardic Judaism, the Alcázar, and the Roman Bridge. Wandering at night, we came upon illuminated Roman temple columns, with a full moon just above--a treat for Sukkot.

Leaving the city, we drove to Baena, a small city, where the Núñez brothers run an olive oil factory that supplies oil to Whole Foods. As the olives were not yet ripe enough for picking, the factory was idle and therefore available for a private tour. We next stopped for lunch at a lakeside restaurant outside Iznájar, where the other tables were taken by British expats and visitors.